On January 27 at 3 p.m., The Dragon Restaurant (Yonggung) in LA’s Koreatown was bustling with customers eager to visit for the last time, just one day before its closure.
Customers, ranging from those who first visited at age 7 and are now 47, to seniors, were busy capturing their final memories of Yonggung. Among the patrons was Deokjung Wang, the former owner and the ‘father of Yonggung.
“It is natural to change over time,” Wang said, “but unfortunately, it is time to say goodbye to Yonggung.” The Korea Daily spoke with him to reminisce about the restaurant’s 43-year legacy.
-Yonggung is closing its doors for good.
“It’s a bittersweet moment. I have been associated with Yonggung for over 30 years. My biggest regret is that I won’t be able to see my friends and regulars who came to our restaurant anymore.”
-What inspired you to open Yonggung?
“I moved to the U.S. in 1971. I first started working at Asawon, a restaurant in LA’s Koreatown, and then opened at Kirinwon in 1974, Wanggung in 1976, Geumjeong Sikdang in 1978, and then Yonggung in 1980. I was familiar with the restaurant industry because my father owned a Chinese restaurant. There weren’t many Chinese restaurants in Koreatown with traditional Chinese flavors, so I wanted to give people a real taste of Chinese food.”
-Yonggung quickly established itself as one of the top Chinese restaurants in Koreatown.
“Initially, it was a struggle. We were often behind on rent and staff salaries. We didn’t even think about success. At the time, there were only a few restaurants that accepted large groups, and Yonggung was one of them. I think that is how we became known.”
-Yonggung was also a part of the Korean American community.
“I have many grateful memories. In the early days, an acquaintance ordered 1,200 servings. There was a soccer match that day, and I remember preparing 1,200 servings at dawn while watching soccer with the staff. It was fun to chat with the customer who came alone too. They always promised to come back with their family, and I was often very touched by that.”
-What were the most popular dishes?
“Fried shrimp with hot sauce, sweet and sour pork, and meat with leek were the most popular, and the clams were also a big hit. The same chef has been cooking these menus since the opening.”
-What is your current focus and plans for the future?
“Having to work over 12 hours a day, I didn’t have time to spend with my family and friends. Now that I’m retired, I’m living my dream. I’m traveling with my family to Korea, China, and Hawaii, making memories and enjoying my hobbies. As soon as I handed over Yonggung in 2016, I took a photography class that I had always wanted to learn. I don’t plan on going back to the restaurant business.”
-Any advice to young Korean-American restaurateurs.
“The younger generation seems to be organized in running their businesses. We need to take the initiative to recognize businesses in Koreatown for its development. I hope we all work together to make sure that we do not let Koreatown be forgotten.”
BY YEJIN KIM, HOONSIK WOO [kim.yejin3@koreadaily.com]
