[15 Years of Korean Food Globalization: Jiyeon Lee]
The globalization of Korean food began in earnest in 2009 with the Korean government’s initiative, and the popularity of Korean food has grown rapidly in the global market since.
However, there is also a downside to this rapid growth. The rapid globalization of Korean food has dulled the colors of Korea’s unique food culture and its authenticity.
This series will interview Michelin-starred chefs, restaurant critics, and local restaurant owners to find out the problems and solutions to the globalization of Korean food.
First up is Chef Jiyeon Lee. Lee was a star of hit songs in Korea in the 1980s. The former teenage pop star of the 80s Korean music scene has become a chef who emphasizes the need for authentic Korean food.
A chef for nearly 17 years, Lee is currently the owner and kitchen manager of Atlanta’s Heirloom Market BBQ. Her signature food is Southern-style barbecue with a Korean twist. Lee is a two-time James Beard Award nominee, a prestigious award in the culinary world.
-What inspired you to incorporate Korean food into American barbecue?
“Southern barbecue and side dishes are hearty and heavy. I wanted to find a way to make it lighter and more comforting. The answer was Korean food. Before smoking the brisket, I applied gochujang (red pepper paste) to the outside and added red pepper flakes to the seasoning. For the Pulled Pork sandwich, we changed the seasoning to Korean-style sweet and spicy stir-fried pork, and instead of coleslaw, we added kimchi, and the customers loved it.”
-Are non-Korean diners interested in Korean food?
“The most common question I get from our customers is to recommend which Korean restaurant I go to. There is more curiosity about authentic Korean food than we realize. One of the advantages of American food culture is its diversity. But, there’s also a lot of fusion food that doesn’t have a clear identity. So I think Americans now crave authentic foreign food.”
-What are Americans’ favorite Korean flavors?
“I think the most dominant flavor of Korean food in the United States is ‘sweet and salty’. However, it’s unfortunate that Korean food has become dominated by just the sweet and salty flavors. I think there is a chance to win if they introduced the healthy flavors of Korean food. Temple food is a good example. It’s a great opportunity to showcase Korean food culture and healthy flavors at the same time.”
-Which Korean flavors will be better suited for Americans’ appetites, fusion or authentic?
“Authentic Korean food is better than ambiguous fusion cuisine. There is enough demand for authentic Korean food. It’s a disappointment that there is a lot of fusion Korean food that has very confusing concepts and tastes. Fusion is great, but it’s also important to preserve a level of originality of the food.”
-The scope of Korean food is still narrow for American diners.
“When non-Korean diners think of Korean food, they immediately think of Korean BBQ restaurants. When I was young, I only had a chance to eat meat when it was my birthday or there was something to celebrate. I personally love ‘baekban’. Home meals like long-simmered soups, delicious bowls of rice, side dishes of vegetables, and grilled fish are what we used to eat the most. These foods tell a story about our dining culture, family values, and history. Everyone loves a story, and this is why home-style Korean food should be better recognized.”
-What are the strengths and weaknesses of Korean food?
“I wouldn’t say that Korean food is the most delicious food in the world. However, I think it is the best food for stimulating the five senses. It has a good balance of flavors, aroma, and aesthetics. In terms of weaknesses, it requires a lot of effort to make. One of the best parts of Korean food is the side dishes, but it takes a lot of work to make them.”
-How can this weakness be overcome?
“We need to raise the level of recognition of Korean food. Many people think of Korean food as value for money, so Korean restaurants can’t easily raise prices. This affects the side dishes as well. It costs more to make and serve a variety of side dishes. When the reputation of Korean food is elevated, restaurants will feel less pressure to raise prices and will be able to serve high-quality side dishes and promote Korean dining culture of side dishes.”
-What is Korean food?
“I think the best way to describe Korean food is to say that it is food that can satisfy the five human senses. I hope that traditional Korean home-style dinner tables become more accessible to the general public. That’s how I wish Korean food to be.”
BY KYEONGJUN KIM, HOONSIK WOO [kim.kyeongjun1@koreadaily.com]
