Chef Anh Sung-jae reflects on ’emotional’ journey during ‘Culinary Class Wars’

Anh Sung-jae, 42, sits in the top echelon of global culinary circles. Earning — and maintaining — the three-Michelin-star status of Mosu Seoul, he is often defined by his serious, uncompromising craft and quiet confidence.

So, when news broke that he would be appearing as a judge on a cooking survival show, it seemed slightly out of character. But Anh delivered honorably on Netflix’s Korea’s “Culinary Class Wars,” rising in popularity with the show’s unprecedented success both at home and abroad.

In a candid phone interview with the Korea JoongAng Daily, Anh on Monday said the last few days had been somewhat emotional for him. The filming was nerve-racking, as he had stayed relatively off-camera and in the kitchen for the past 20 years. After a myriad of spiffy outfit fittings for the show, he even felt a little unsure of whether he could pull off his on-screen role.

“Thanks to the show, people are curious about our profession and restaurants,” which may not sound grand, but “to us, it’s everything,” said Anh.

The chef says he has never been too good at staying awake to watch television late at night, and he hasn’t been able to watch the whole series yet. But he may not need to, adding, “I already know the ending!”

“I certainly feel its success and impacts, though,” he said.

Many of the show’s contestants are seeing incredible public fame, and some have even booked new TV gigs. But arguably the show’s biggest new star is Anh. The California-raised chef’s soft-spoken yet discerning demeanor, spontaneous use of English expressions and tailored suits have become inspiration to a slew of memes and comedy shows like “SNL Korea” (2021-)

“I was just being myself, so I don’t really understand what that is all about,” he said in a sheepish voice. “Honestly, I was nervous at times on the show, but I wasn’t nervous when there was food in front of me.”

When the contestants’ dishes were served, Anh said he felt at home. He was confident in his judging abilities but wanted to be sincere toward his fellow colleagues, especially for the show.

“I had no doubts when deciding whether to give contestants a pass or fail. But I did think very carefully. I wanted to be respectful and also give them constructive criticism,” Anh said.

“I don’t know anything about TV, but I do know how much work these cooks put into those dishes and the courage that it took for them to be there. I had a conversation with each of them as a mentor and colleague.”

When talking about the show’s creatives, Anh said he was thankful for the way they respected his approach to “Culinary Class Wars.” He also appreciated the show’s depiction of the chefs’ professionalism. Unlike Korea’s previous cooking shows, which had required the starring chefs to be entertaining, like a comedian, “Culinary Class Wars” focused on the more serious, “cool” side of the profession, he said.

“Think about an athlete, for instance. They put everything into their life to become champions, and not by making people laugh. They impress people because they are serious about what they do, and that’s why they are so cool, and people want to pursue that dream as well. I think chefs are similar to athletes.

”We put in our all for every game, and every day is game day at restaurants.”

Anh isn’t a fussy dresser, but the show’s creatives did say he lost some weight for the show in a different interview with the press on Tuesday. His array of outfits, including the iconic plum-colored suit, were chosen after careful deliberation, which he said he willingly underwent to best represent his profession.

“I was on the show on behalf of Korea’s dining scene. [When people saw the show], I knew they were going to be asking, ‘What kind of person is the best chef in Korea?’”

His greatest sense of purpose on the show, however, was to inspire a new generation of chefs in a period when the local restaurant industry was struggling. 

“I’ve been very emotional because my colleagues and contestants from the show have contacted me to say that their restaurants are fully booked, and they were thanking me for it, saying that I represented them well,” he said.

“It was also especially moving because I had been struggling with this before. Before the show, we would post that we were hiring, but we wouldn’t get many applicants.”

“Culinary Class Wars” is a platform that chefs never had, Anh continued. “On the show, we showed how serious and professional we are. So, I’m glad I could be part of it.”

These days, Anh is focused on reopening Mosu Seoul, which has been temporarily closed since January.

“I’m trying my best to lay low and not lose track of who I am and what I’m about,” he said. “The show was certainly a blessing, and I am thankful for this surge of curiosity about our work and me. But I’m definitely trying my best not to overreact or get too caught up in it.”
Mosu Seoul is slated to reopen sometime next year.

“I’m very proud of myself and the work that my team has achieved with Mosu. I want to keep all that going and not lose it because of fame.

“My ultimate goal is to be a chef for as long as possible because this is what I enjoy and have always dreamed about. I don’t want to trade this in for anything.“

BY LEE JIAN [lee.jian@joongang.co.kr]